Credit Score
Simulator
Model how paying down a card, opening a new one, or closing your oldest account moves your credit profile — built on FICO's published category weights, not a black box.
How is a credit score calculated?
A FICO Score is built from five categories with published weights: payment history 35%, amounts owed 30%, length of credit history 15%, new credit 10%, and credit mix 10%. Payment history and utilization together drive about two-thirds of the result, which is why paying on time and keeping revolving balances low — ideally under 10% of your limits — matter more than anything else. The exact FICO algorithm is proprietary, so no tool outside FICO can reproduce your real score. This simulator applies the published weights to your inputs to estimate where your profile sits and, more usefully, how far a specific action would move it.
Last updated: September 2026 · Weights verified against myFICO
Sources: myFICO “What's in your FICO Score” (category weights) · myFICO amounts-owed and payment-history guidance · CFPB consumer credit-score guidance · Free reports: AnnualCreditReport.com
📋 Educational estimate only — this is not a FICO Score and not credit advice. FICO and VantageScore models are proprietary and use full bureau data. Check your real score with your card issuer or bank, and your reports free at AnnualCreditReport.com.
the strongest single signal in the model — 35% of the model, the largest category.
✓ 20% utilization — under the widely cited 30% threshold, but under 10% scores better
Length of credit history, 15%. This one only moves with the calendar — it cannot be accelerated.
New credit, 10%. Checking your own score is a soft pull and never counts. Rate shopping for one loan type is deduplicated.
Credit mix, 10% — the smallest category. Never open a loan you do not need just to improve it.
Estimated score range — not a FICO Score
784–824
Exceptional
top tier — best advertised rates
Where your profile is strong and weak
Payment history · 35% of a FICO Score
Never missed a payment
100/100
Amounts owed · 30% of a FICO Score
20% utilization
89/100
Length of history · 15% of a FICO Score
7 yr average age
88/100
New credit · 10% of a FICO Score
1 hard inquiry / 12mo
92/100
Credit mix · 10% of a FICO Score
Cards + one loan (auto, student or personal)
75/100
Your weakest category is Credit mix, worth 10% of a FICO Score. That is where an improvement buys the most.
What if I…
The delta is the reliable output here — direction and rough size follow from the published weights, even though the absolute number is an estimate.
Not sure which action to take first? This page models a change you name. The credit score quest takes the other side: it reads your profile and returns a ranked action plan with rough point values and how long each one takes to show up.
Why nobody can compute your exact FICO Score
There is no single credit score to compute. FICO maintains several generations of its model — FICO 8 remains the most widely used, with FICO 9 and FICO 10T in circulation — plus industry-specific auto and bankcard versions on different scales. Each of the three nationwide bureaus, Equifax, Experian and TransUnion, holds a slightly different file on you, because furnishers do not all report to all three. Run several model versions across three files and you legitimately have dozens of valid scores at any moment, which is why the number your card issuer shows can differ from the one a mortgage lender pulls without either being wrong.
The models themselves are trade secrets. What FICO publishes is the relative weight of the five categories, and that is genuinely useful: it tells you that utilization and payment history together decide roughly two-thirds of the outcome, and that credit mix — the factor people most often try to game — is worth only a tenth. Use the weights to prioritise, and use your issuer's free score to track the real number.
Last reviewed 7 September 2026 by the Richify AI editorial team.
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This simulator scores each of FICO's five published categories from 0 to 100 using your inputs, combines them with the official published weights — payment history 35%, amounts owed 30%, length of credit history 15%, new credit 10%, credit mix 10% — and maps the weighted result onto the 300-850 range.
It is not a FICO Score and cannot be. FICO's models are proprietary and are computed from your full bureau file, including month-by-month histories no calculator can see. What the published weights DO support is the direction and rough size of a change, which is why the What-If panel reports a delta rather than promising you a number.
Utilization uses the bands FICO and the CFPB publish: under 10% is ideal, under 30% is the commonly cited threshold, and the curve falls away steeply above 50%. For your real score, check your card issuer or bank, and get your underlying reports free at AnnualCreditReport.com — the only federally authorised source.
How to use this calculator
- Pick the payment-history option that matches your worst entry in the last seven years. This is 35% of the model — the single largest input, and the one that moves the estimate most.
- Enter your total revolving balances and your total credit limits across all cards. The tool divides one by the other to get utilization, which drives the 30% 'amounts owed' category.
- Set the average age of your accounts in years (length of history, 15%), the number of hard inquiries in the last 12 months (new credit, 10%), and your mix of credit types (10%).
- Read the estimated range and the factor breakdown, which shows each category scored 0-100 alongside FICO's published weight so you can see where the damage actually is.
- Use the What-If panel to simulate one action — paying down a balance, opening a card, closing your oldest card — and read the DELTA. The change is the reliable output; the absolute number is an estimate.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
Can any tool actually calculate my real FICO score?
No — and you should be sceptical of any that claims to. FICO and VantageScore are proprietary models, and the exact algorithms are trade secrets that have never been published.
On top of that, a real score is computed from your full credit-bureau file, which contains data no calculator can see: exact account opening dates, month-by-month payment records going back years, balance history on every tradeline, and public records. There is also no single score — FICO maintains multiple versions (FICO 8, FICO 9, FICO 10T) plus industry-specific auto and bankcard variants, and each of the three bureaus holds slightly different data, so you legitimately have dozens of different scores at any moment.
What IS public is the WEIGHT FICO gives each of its five categories, and that is what this tool uses. Treat the number here as an educational estimate of where your profile sits, and treat the change when you simulate an action as the useful output.
For your actual score, your card issuer or bank most likely shows a real FICO or VantageScore free, and you can get your underlying reports free every week from AnnualCreditReport.com, the only federally authorised source.
What credit utilization should I aim for?
Under 30% is the widely cited threshold, but under 10% is where the highest scores actually sit — FICO has said that people in the top score tier average roughly 7% utilization. Utilization is your revolving balances divided by your total revolving credit limits, and it is the dominant part of the 'amounts owed' category, which is 30% of a FICO Score — the second-largest of the five.
Two properties make it the most useful lever available to most people. First, it is calculated on the balance reported to the bureaus, usually your statement balance, so it reflects a moment in time rather than a history.
Second, and following from that, it carries almost no memory: pay a card down and the new, lower utilization is reflected as soon as the issuer next reports, typically within a billing cycle. That is why paying down revolving debt is the fastest legitimate way to move a score, while negative payment history takes years to age off.
Both total utilization and per-card utilization matter, so a single maxed card can hurt even when your overall figure looks fine. Source: myFICO, amounts-owed guidance.
Why is payment history worth 35%?
Because it answers the question a lender is actually asking: has this person paid back credit on time before? FICO weights it at 35%, the largest of the five categories, and it is the one where damage is both most severe and most durable.
Three dimensions drive it — recency, severity and frequency. A payment must generally be 30 days late before a creditor reports it, so being a few days late may cost you a fee without touching your score at all.
Once reported, severity escalates sharply: a 30-day late is meaningfully lighter than a 90-day late, and a charge-off, collection, repossession, foreclosure or bankruptcy is heavier again. Recency matters because the impact fades as the event ages, and most negative entries drop off after seven years (ten for a Chapter 7 bankruptcy).
The practical implication is asymmetric and worth internalising: you cannot build payment history quickly, but you can damage it in a single month, so automating at least the minimum payment on every account protects the largest share of your score for almost no effort. Source: myFICO, payment-history guidance.
Will checking my own credit score lower it?
No. Checking your own credit is a soft inquiry and has no effect on your score, no matter how often you do it — this applies to scores from your card issuer, your bank, credit-monitoring apps, and the free reports from AnnualCreditReport.com. What can affect your score is a HARD inquiry, which happens when a lender pulls your file because you applied for credit.
A hard inquiry typically costs a few points, stays on your report for two years, and is only factored into FICO scoring for twelve months. The 'new credit' category as a whole is 10% of a FICO Score, so a single inquiry is a minor effect that is usually swamped by the account it creates.
One important protection: FICO deduplicates rate shopping. Multiple hard inquiries for the same type of loan — mortgage, auto or student — inside a focused shopping window count as a single inquiry, so comparing several mortgage lenders does not multiply the damage.
Credit-card applications are not deduplicated this way, so several card applications in quick succession do read as several inquiries. Source: myFICO, new-credit and inquiries guidance; CFPB.
Does closing an old credit card hurt my score?
It can, through two separate channels, which is why the common advice is to keep old no-fee cards open. The first and usually larger effect is on utilization: closing a card removes its limit from your total available credit, so the same balances now divide by a smaller denominator and your utilization jumps.
Closing an unused card with a $10,000 limit while carrying $3,000 across other cards can move you from roughly 10% to 30% utilization overnight, and 'amounts owed' is 30% of the score. The second effect is on length of credit history, which is 15%.
This one is slower and often overstated: closed accounts in good standing generally remain on your report for about ten years and continue to count toward your average account age, so the damage arrives later, when the account finally drops off. Weigh those against real reasons to close — an annual fee you no longer get value from, a card you cannot manage responsibly, or a divorce or separation where joint access is the problem.
If the only motivation is tidiness, keeping it open and using it occasionally is usually the better call. Source: myFICO, amounts-owed and length-of-history guidance.
How fast can a credit score actually change?
It depends entirely on which factor you move, and the spread is very wide. Utilization is the fast lever: it is recalculated from whatever balance your issuer reports each cycle, carries no memory of previous months, and so paying down a card can show up within one billing cycle, typically 30 days or less.
Hard inquiries are next — they stop being scored after twelve months and disappear from the report at twenty-four. Length of credit history moves only with the calendar and cannot be accelerated at all, though opening no new accounts lets your average age rise on its own.
Negative payment history is the slowest: late payments, collections and charge-offs generally remain for seven years from the date of first delinquency, with their weight fading as they age, and a Chapter 7 bankruptcy stays for ten. Two things people expect to be fast are not: paying off a collection does not remove it from your report under older scoring models still in wide use, and disputing an accurate entry will not delete it.
The realistic sequence for most people is utilization first for a quick move, then time and consistency for everything else. Source: myFICO; CFPB consumer guidance on report retention periods.
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